Why I Love Le Verre à Pied on Rue Mouffetard

On a recent return trip to Paris, I gladly waited for Le Verre à Pied to open for a chance to eat there. This tiny, family-owned and historic restaurant is open only a few days a week and I adore it. 

On the picturesque rue Mouffetard (narrow, cobbled and once a Roman road) – my favorite street – I was welcomed by Claude behind the bar and then his wife Hendrika, who emerged from her kitchen wearing the apron to show that she is indeed the person in the kitchen behind all of their dishes. 

The formule on the daily blackboard carte is 22 euros for a plat and either an entrée or a dessert (the dessert option decreases the formule price to 21) – all made daily by Hendrike. You can also order only a plat for 18 euros and an entrée or dessert for 7.   

Along with greeting customers and moving in and out of the kitchen, Hendrika joined Claude to use what appeared to be watercolors to color a paper crown that apparently was needed by a street musician just across the narrow street.  I watched as she crossed the street to try it on his head and then came back in to let it dry. 

As my friend Raluca and I eyed our choices of plats from the chalk entries on the blackboard,  and Claude helped me choose an appropriate wine, we conversed with both owners and sometimes with the other server – a young man who might be their son.

See below for a photo of the blackboard with the daily specials. I chose the filet mignon of porc and Raluca had the veau a Italienne and we shared the apricot tart for dessert. 

This restaurant first became a café around 1870 during the French Commune. (Before that, it was a long passageway ending in a forge.) It was purchased in 1870 by Madame Paulette’s father, then by Madame Paulette from her father in 1919, and by Claude and Hendrika in 1983. Except for holiday breaks, and the few days a week when they are not open, they have been greeting and cooking for locals and tourists during all of those years.

The food looks and tastes homemade – after all, Hendrika personally takes care of every dish. One year, she even hung around my table to help with suggestions. So very personal is her touch and that of her husband.  

Not only have I eaten wonderful lunches and dinners at Le Verre à Pied, but over the years I’ve also gotten into the habit of wandering  in between meals with a book or a journal and ensconcing myself in the corner table near the front window to read and/or write and order a beer or wine and converse with the locals who hang out there to do the same. Yes, they are interesting, fun and diverse – leading to a very Parisian and fun afternoon place to hang out in this cool and ancient quartier.

This restaurant has also been featured in film. Watch a copy of the film Amélie (2001) and you will see the strange heroine making a life decision while standing at its bar, a drink in hand. 

DETAILS 

Le Verre à Pied 
118 rue Mouffetard, 5th arrondissement 
Tel: +33 1 43 31 15 72 
I suggest you call about the hours since those listed online are more extensive hours than shown on the door of the restaurant. It was closed two days the week I was there, but then opened for both lunch and dinner. It’s well worth the minute or two of checking, I assure you.