The Essential Guide to the 11th Arrondissement

Situated between the Place de la Bastille and Père Lachaise, the 11th is known for its food scene and youthful spirit. Come here to take a break from the Paris of postcards and seek inspiration instead from the young, creative locals driving the city’s pulse. 

To fully savor its subtler charms and oddities, this is a district best explored on foot. Set out along the Boulevard Richard Lenoir and branch off onto side streets, where you’re bound to discover something unexpected — whether a fabulous restaurant or some unusual architecture, often more reminiscent of cities like Berlin. The 11th is a very kid-friendly area, with several green spaces throughout. Try a picnic at one of the following: Square Maurice Gardette (2 rue du Général Blaise), Square de la Roquette (143 rue de la Roquette), or the Jardin Truillot (82 bd Voltaire). Churches of note include Saint Joseph des Nations (161 rue Saint-Maur) and Saint Ambroise (71 bis bd Voltaire).  

WHERE TO EAT 

Head to Guinga (Galaxy in Japanese) for a vegan macrobiotic bowl, and snag a table outside under the trees facing the Square Maurice Gardette. Ingredients rotate daily, based on whatever’s most fresh, and owner and chef Tito can accommodate various dietary restrictions. Browse the epicerie inside for miso, ume, and books on macrobiotics, or order to go for a picnic in the park. And don’t miss the black sesame flan, with a creamy, mousse-like texture and an incredible depth of flavor. Open for lunch Tuesday to Saturday 11:30 am-3 pm. 8 rue Rochebrune.

Alternatively, check out neighborhood favorite Mokonuts’s younger sibling, Mokochaya, for sublime bento and desserts. Choose between a meat, fish, and vegetarian option daily, accompanied by seasonal sides. The food here is as delicious as it is beautiful, and the service is some of the best in Paris, super warm and welcoming. Take a seat at the communal table — you never know who you might meet. On Saturdays the menu switches to brunch. Open Tuesday to Saturday 8:30 am-6 pm. 11 rue Saint-Bernard

On the move and craving a classic French sandwich? Head to Chez Aline. Operating within a former horse butchery, Tiphane serves up an original menu — including departures like chorizo potato and pot au feu-filled sandwiches. Revert to the classic jambon beurre fromage, select between a trio of cheeses, and watch as fresh baguette is slathered with butter. Do the sacrilege thing and stroll down the Rue de la Roquette while eating, since counter seating is often full. Vegetarian options and desserts are on offer too, but go early if possible, as once the weekday lunch crowd hits things tend to sell out. Open Monday to Friday 11:30 am to 3:30 pm. 85 rue de la Roquette 

For refined French classics, head to Café de l’Usine at the edge of the 11th. Located inside a former shoe factory, the restaurant has two distinct dining spaces, one upstairs, with high ceilings and lots of light, and one downstairs, where diners get a front row seat to the kitchen action. The menu here is simple and delicious — at lunchtime, choose between two starters, two mains, and a cheese or a dessert. At dinner, they offer a souper menu, with four courses and an optional cheese. The pissaladière is excellent here, as are the fish dishes, and there are vegetarian options, too. Menus 25 euro (lunch) to 55 euro (dinner). Open Tuesday to Saturday, takes reservations. 5 Passage Piver 

To continue the theme of eating in unusual spaces, check out Pistil, located inside La Ménagerie de verre. Originally a printing house, now a series of dance studios and a performance space, the building also houses a cafe serving some of Paris’s best vegetarian lunches. The dining space is light and airy, prices are reasonable, and the staff are kind and welcoming. Try the maki and the mushroom comté sandwich on fresh focaccia. Monday to Friday 10 am-4 pm. 12 Rue Lechevin

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NIGHTLIFE 

Aiming to rub elbows with the young and beautiful of the 11th? Head to Le Cornichon (2 Rue des Goncourt), a PMU turned bar and restaurant. Come for a glass of wine or a cocktail and stay for the music and excellent people watching. Arcade games and a slushy machine round out the experience, but the food leaves something to be desired. Refuel with a pizza at nearby A Smorfia (158 Rue Saint-Maur) instead, or walk to Lissit (48 rue de la Folie Méricourt) for the gnocchi. 

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If you prefer your wine paired with ice cream, queue at Folderol for refined flavors and the best cones in Paris. Open until 11 pm, this is the perfect place for an after dinner treat or a nightcap of natural wine — maybe you’ll pioneer the trend. Just don’t think about documenting it on tiktok—there is a strict no social media policy here. Try the chocolate paired with vanilla São Tomé and park at the bar or take it to go and stroll through the Marais. Open Wednesday to Sunday 4 pm to 11 pm. 10 rue du Grand Prieuré

Hit up Parisian favorite La Buvette for excellent food with your wine. The dishes here are deceptively simple: who knew a few slices of cheese and a dish of white beans with bergamot could be so heavenly? Wines are natural and solo drinkers shouldn’t hesitate—the mood is convivial and conversation flows, even if you’re just eavesdropping. Inconspicuous by day and easily missed from the street, La Buvette comes alive after 5 pm. Thursday to Monday until 10 pm, no reservations. 67 Rue Saint-Maur 

SHOPPING 

Check out secondhand emporium Frange à l’Envers, where you may encounter a lost model asking for directions to the casting next door, or a pottery class in session across the alley. The merchandise here leans contemporary — French favorites Isabel Marant and Jaquemus are mixed in with past season Zara and Mango, and the clothing is helpfully organized by color and size. They also offer a men’s section and a personal styling service, and if you have clothing, shoes, or accessories to sell, the consignment experience is straightforward and friendly. Open Tuesday to Saturday 11am-7pm, 81 rue Saint-Maur

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Step into a time warp at Chine with Me and browse a curated collection of y2K-era clothing. Owner Edna chooses a television series every month to organize around, from Friends to Charmed to Buffy, and presents collections inspired by each show. Think tropical prints, lots of color, spaghetti straps, and slinky fabrics. Even the dressing rooms here are can’t miss, all plush carpet, heavy drapes, and in-room mirrors, a rarity in Paris. Open Wednesday to Sunday 1 pm-8 pm. 85 rue Sedaine, 75011 

For fans of earlier vintage, head to Clara Vintages on the rue Jean Pierre Timbaud. Owner Clara is a wonderful conversationalist and has a seasoned eye for unique pieces—her racks are filled with prints, embellished pieces, and vibrant colors from the ’70s, ’80s, and ’90s. Try an ombre silk chiffon number sprinkled with beads, or a sequined peach linen dress. This is an excellent place to shop for gifts, especially for jewelry lovers. Tuesday to Saturday 12 noo-7 pm, 2 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud  

For cheese and wine, head to Source, a small fromagerie at 102 rue du Chemin Vert. Spice up your apero rotation with their cheese sablés and select a bottle from a wall of natural wines. In need of a gift? Check out Landline (107 ave Parmentier), where you’ll find everything from stuffed unicorns to wool inserts for gardening clogs. Continue the journey back through time and reach peak nostalgia at the local DVD store, JM Video (121 ave Parmentier). They hold monthly meetups for film lovers and organize ciné club screenings at local independent theaters. 

Looking for an anglophone hairstylist in Paris? Visit Vee of Vee Hair for cut, color, and an enlightening chat. You’re in expert hands here, and Vee’s shop feels more like a neighborhood gallery than a hair salon, with a very homey vibe. Cuts include a shampoo infused with essential oils, and combined with Vee’s warmth and attentiveness, the overall effect is one of total relaxation. Curly hair is a specialty here. 64 rue Jean Pierre Timbaud