Literary Paris Hotspots, Part 2
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THURSDAY: Henry Miller (6th & 15th arrondissements)
Writer Henry Miller was born in New York City
in 1891. He grew up in Brooklyn, were he spoke only German until he
began school. Miller was a rebellious and difficult youth who resisted
his father’s desire for him to work at the family tailor shop. Even at
an early age he knew he was far too creative to work in any field that
did not include writing. He dropped out of college and took numerous
odd jobs before deciding on becoming a writer full-time.
In
1915, Miller met pianist Beatrice Sylvas Wickens, and in 1917, they
were married. However, the birth of their daughter, financial problems,
lack of work, and Miller‚s restlessness created problems for the
couple. In 1922 Miller tried writing fiction. His first book “Clipped
Wings” mirrored the turmoil in Miller‚s own life, and by 1923 he was
ready to change his life.
He met a taxi dancer in a dance hall
named June Mansfield and became infatuated with her. By December 1923
Miller had divorced his wife Beatrice and married June. His obsession
with the former taxi dancer would continue for the rest of his life.
Late
in the year of 1934 became one of Miller‚s most productive writing
periods. Some of Miller‚s best-known work includes The Tropic of
Capricorn, The Colossus of Maroussi, The Air-Conditioned Nightmare, and
Nexus.
24, rue Bonaparte (6th arrondt) Formerly the Hôtel de Paris; Miller and his wife stayed here in 1928
36,
Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6th arrondt) – Miller and his wife stayed at
the Hôtel here in 1930. They rented a room for 500 francs (20 dollars
at the time). He was thrilled to be in Paris and wrote a friend that “the streets sing, the stones sing. The houses drip with history, glory, and romance.”
2
rue Auguste-Bartholdi (15th) Métro: Duplex – In 1930 this was Miller’s
first winter in Paris. He was broke and starving when he met Richard
Osborn, a lawyer, who gave Miller a place to stay in a seven-floor
walk-up overlooking the Eiffel tour.
5 rue Lamartine (9th)
Métro: Cadet – In 1931, Miller got a job at the Tribune as a
proofreader. Only editorial staff was permitted to publish articles,
therefore Miller submitted articles under the name of “Perlès.”
FRIDAY: Langston Hughes (17th arrondissement)
Langston
Hughes, a poet, playwright, fiction writer, autobiographer, and
anthologist was born in Joplin, Missouri in 1902. Hughes, one of the
most versatile black writers of the twentieth century, was known for
his use of Black Vernacular English and black cultural references in
his writing. Influenced by the poetry of Paul Laurence Dunbar and Carl
Sandburg, his love for writing began at an early age. Hughes was also
influenced by black music, especially blues and jazz.
Langston
Hughes‚ poems are often described as “lyrical” in the musical sense,
and combine many of the same elements as the words in blues songs. An
important period in Hughes‚ development as a writer was the Harlem
Renaissance; a flourishing of artistic expression by African Americans
centered in the community of Harlem in New York City in the 1920s. In
this community of “New Negro” writers were Countee Cullen, Wallace
Thurman, Eric Walrond, Arna Bontemps, and Zora Neale Hurston. In 1925,
Hughes won first prize in a poetry contest for his poem “The Weary
Blues‚” and the following year his first volume of poetry was published
by Alfred A. Knopf.
In 1940, Hughes published his first, very
candid, autobiography entitled “The Big Sea”. In 1942, he began writing
a weekly column for the Chicago Defender that produced Jesse B. Semple,
a character who would feature in five books and an off-Broadway play.
Semple has been called one of the most original comic creations in
American journalism. Hughes was a prolific writer and black America’s
most original poet.
15, Rue Nollet (17th arrondt) Métro: La Fourche
Langston
Hughes rented a room here in April 1924. He was 22 years old and worked
as a dishwasher and waiter at the well-known Grand Duc nightclub in
Pigalle. At the end of the year, Hughes left for Italy.
LITERARY CAFES AND BARS IN PARIS
Paris
is filled with lovely little cafes and bars, in addition to many
literary cafes that also serve good food along with their intellectual
fare. Don’t forget to check out some of their splendid wine lists!
Café des Phares
7, place de la Bastille
Neighborhood: 4th arrondissement. (33 1) 42 72 04 70
In
1992, this bar began having afternoons of philosophical debate. Every
Sunday morning at 11 sharp, the old and young confront each other about
issues of ideology or literature. These “reflection sessions” usually
get very crowded so make sure you get there early enough! In the
summer, you can take your debate out on the terrace!
Open: 7am-2am every day (3am-4am Sat-Sun).
Métro: Bastille
Disabled access is available.
Marronniers
8, Rue des Archives
Neighborhood: 4th arrondt. (33 1) 40 27 87 72
This
literary venue organizes reading evenings on Wednesdays. It is one of
the friendliest bars in the area. Although the clientele is quite young
and laid-back, people of all ages should feel welcome. In the summer,
it is best to arrive early in order to find a seat on the terrace.
Open: 7am-2am every day.
Métro: Hôtel de Ville.
Disabled access is available.
Lapin Agile
22, rue des Saules
Neighborhood: 18th arrondt. (33 1) 46 06 85 87
This
lovely old country shack is now a cabaret and has an interesting
history. In 1860, the Cabaret des Assassins opened in this building; in
the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the Lapin Agile (Agile Rabbit)
frequently hosted artists like Picasso, and Apollinaire.
Nowadays,
poetry is the specialty of the house and you can find many writers and
journalists here. The walls are covered with souvenirs, paintings,
poems, and testimonies. Every night, singers and poets perform a
four-hour show (primarily in French). Great atmosphere, and audience
participation is encouraged.
Admission: Call for price. One drink included.
Open: 9pm-2am (shows) Tue-Sun night.
Métro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt
Disabled access is available.
L’Autre Parnasse
1, Rue de la Grande-Chaumière
Neighborhood: 6th arrondt. (33 1) 43 54 98 98
This
half-café, half-bookshop venue stocks more than three thousand books
relating to Mediterranean culture. It also hosts a literary night every
Monday.
Open: 9am-7pm Mon-Sat.
Métro: Vavin
Disabled access is available.
Bar Hemingway
Hôtel Ritz
4, Place Vendôme
Neighborhood: 1st arrondt. (33 1) 43 16 30 30
No
literary itinerary would be complete without a trip to Bar Hemingway.
However, dress well and come ready to spend money. This is not an
inexpensive place but Bar Hemingway is well worth it. Located in the
Hôtel Ritz, the bar is a favorite of the privileged classes, and
Americans who prefer upscale venues. They also serve the best Ginger
Martinis this side of the world!
Disabled access is available.
Paris Reflections takes
its readers on six walking tours through the historic districts of
Paris, where for more than two centuries, African-Americans have lived,
worked, and created a rich and vibrant legacy of achievement in art,
literature, science, business, sport, social reform, and other fields.
From the last decades of the 18th century to the present, this legacy
has been shaped by such people as Sally Hemmings, Victor Séjour, Ada
“Bricktop” Smith, Jack Johnson, Josephine Baker, Langston Hughes,
Richard Wright, Sidney Bechet, and James Baldwin. Available from Amazon.com and McDonald & Woodward Publishing.