Girls Gone Wild?
906
Women on Junior Year Abroad
It is 7:30 p.m. (1:30 Eastern Standard Time–do you know where your daughters are?
I
spent an evening with five women, all between the ages of 20 and 21,
who are studying abroad in Paris. They all come from similar
backgrounds, similar family structures, ‘good’ homes and more-than
respectable four-year colleges and universities in the States.
Here for a semester only, arriving in January of this year, they are
either immersed in Anglo campuses for classes in French (some of which
include Art History, Political Science, French, and Marketing) or
matriculated into the European system, taking one or two classes at La
Sorbonne One is interning at a foundation doing translations and
other administrative tasks. Some pay top dollar to share a fully
equipped flat near St. Paul in the 4th, others are sheltered with posh
families in the 7th and 16th. They were a handsome bunch, here
for the scene and being seen, experiencing their first trip across the
Atlantic and their first taste of European living.
The
rendez-vous was at Les Etages in the Marais, a convenient, convivial
spot any time of day, filled with suits, friends, gays, French and
Anglo-alike. (It’s my win-win go-to spot for American guests and
friends.) We chomped on caramelized peanuts and herby green
pitted olives as we gabbed and downed our Happy Hour sangria and
mojitos faster than I realized.
The group was comprised
of like-minded upper-middle-class women with families back home
supporting shopping sprees and dinners that I thought parents could
only afford. And those that are wired a sizeable allowance were able to
afford jaunts to different European destinations at their
choosing, one including a Dublin bender for St. Paddy’s day.
A
firey blonde ambition, with a raspy voice and the confidence of
21-year-old thirtysomethin, led the group and jumped right into her
latest conquest. Taking out her digital camera, she showed me a
picture of a dark-haired Algerian businessman in a suit with his arm
around her, kissing her on the cheek with the backdrop of a velvet
swanky club banquette. “Ok, so he’s not that cute. A bit
chubby…,” she sighed.
It was at the club Doobie’s, off
the Champs, which sounded to me more like an unhip diner rather than
some posh spot. He and his friends had invited her to their table
and had generously shared their bottle of vodka even when she had to
pick herself up off the ground after a tumble off the sofa. They
danced that night, but parted ways at the end after exchanging phone
numbers. In the 24 hours following their separation, he sent text
messages begging to see her again immediately. When she told him
she was sick in order to avoid plans, he would text “Oh you poor baby,
let me know when you’re all better.” She has stopped calling altogether
after getting the night-out she wanted. Fresh from a break-up
with her aspiring actor boyfriend, she complained her experience with
French men left her with the impression they are overly
sensitive. Her ex’s clingy habits, constant calls and whines if
she wanted a good night’s sleep didn’t allow her the freedom and
independence she said she needed.
Only two of the
girls sitting around the low-lying tables at the converted hotel cum
bar were up for grabs in the city of love; the others were faithful to
their down-home honeys.
“I’m scared,” said another girl
about an aggressive Frenchman who was constantly sending her text
messages on her portable phone. “I mean, I want him this guy to
take me out and buy me drinks and take me out to dinner and everything
but I don’t want to ever, like…”
“No, it’s not worth it!” squealed another.
We were by far the loudest table, catching glances and smirks from admirers at the table next door.
The
discussion then turned to the MTV “Real World” series, which is
currently being filmed in Paris. It’s a reality show about
strangers picked to live in a dream location to find out what happens
when people stop being polite, a show that will guarantee to up the
in-your-face quotient of Americana, drama queens and kings told to play
up their attitudes and voices for the sake of the lens. It is
doubtful this will ease relations between the culture-clashing
nations. “I just want to be able to say that I met them,” the
jock said.
Unavoidably, the conversation gave way to the
current Franco-American tensions. “A guy from the French military
pointed a gun at me,” said the bold one. “That was scary,” remembered
her friend who was with her at the time. “It was funny,” the bold one
laughed off.
They had been out for the night, all gussied
up, enjoying an evening of fine French wines, laughing and taking up
air space, when they passed guards in front of a building.
Recognizing immediately they were Americans, the “cute” armed men
thought it might be a good tease to flirt at gunpoint.
(Perhaps
it was, indeed, a harmless act, but I know that with the increasing
tensions here, tension that I myself have felt among friends who have
been invited to my own home, this is no time for loaded jokes.)
When
the last crunches had left only candy crumbs, the ladies moved the
party down the street, across rue de Rivoli towards the river to La
Perla, not the lingerie store, but rather a pseudo Mexican
bar-restaurant stretched with fake plastic trees and plants, a less
than life plastic sailfish, and a plastic ‘cerveza pacifico’ life
preserver hung over the mirrored bar detailing the Mexican wine and
margarita specials in red. It was not a particularly lively
clientele, except, of course, for our table of six American girls.
When
I asked them the bars they frequented to meet these elusive French men,
who “cross their legs like women,” “smoke incessantly” and “wear black
turtlenecks,” one answered, “I’d like to know.” They have all
found it difficult to integrate here, and those who have found
boyfriends have been dissatisfied with the amount of freedom they allow
them or the lack of good-old American machismo displayed by this
culture. With their slight frames and delicate hands, it would be
a tough match in the ring should they set up their homeland loves
against the Euros to have at it. They were even less thrilled at
the prospect of the American guys here in the city, those on their
study abroad programs or those…
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Women on Junior Year Abroad
It is 7:30 p.m. (1:30 Eastern Standard Time–do you know where your daughters are?
I
spent an evening with five women, all between the ages of 20 and 21,
who are studying abroad in Paris. They all come from similar
backgrounds, similar family structures, ‘good’ homes and more-than
respectable four-year colleges and universities in the States.
Here for a semester only, arriving in January of this year, they are
either immersed in Anglo campuses for classes in French (some of which
include Art History, Political Science, French, and Marketing) or
matriculated into the European system, taking one or two classes at La
Sorbonne One is interning at a foundation doing translations and
other administrative tasks. Some pay top dollar to share a fully
equipped flat near St. Paul in the 4th, others are sheltered with posh
families in the 7th and 16th. They were a handsome bunch, here
for the scene and being seen, experiencing their first trip across the
Atlantic and their first taste of European living.
spent an evening with five women, all between the ages of 20 and 21,
who are studying abroad in Paris. They all come from similar
backgrounds, similar family structures, ‘good’ homes and more-than
respectable four-year colleges and universities in the States.
Here for a semester only, arriving in January of this year, they are
either immersed in Anglo campuses for classes in French (some of which
include Art History, Political Science, French, and Marketing) or
matriculated into the European system, taking one or two classes at La
Sorbonne One is interning at a foundation doing translations and
other administrative tasks. Some pay top dollar to share a fully
equipped flat near St. Paul in the 4th, others are sheltered with posh
families in the 7th and 16th. They were a handsome bunch, here
for the scene and being seen, experiencing their first trip across the
Atlantic and their first taste of European living.
The
rendez-vous was at Les Etages in the Marais, a convenient, convivial
spot any time of day, filled with suits, friends, gays, French and
Anglo-alike. (It’s my win-win go-to spot for American guests and
friends.) We chomped on caramelized peanuts and herby green
pitted olives as we gabbed and downed our Happy Hour sangria and
mojitos faster than I realized.
rendez-vous was at Les Etages in the Marais, a convenient, convivial
spot any time of day, filled with suits, friends, gays, French and
Anglo-alike. (It’s my win-win go-to spot for American guests and
friends.) We chomped on caramelized peanuts and herby green
pitted olives as we gabbed and downed our Happy Hour sangria and
mojitos faster than I realized.
The group was comprised
of like-minded upper-middle-class women with families back home
supporting shopping sprees and dinners that I thought parents could
only afford. And those that are wired a sizeable allowance were able to
afford jaunts to different European destinations at their
choosing, one including a Dublin bender for St. Paddy’s day.
of like-minded upper-middle-class women with families back home
supporting shopping sprees and dinners that I thought parents could
only afford. And those that are wired a sizeable allowance were able to
afford jaunts to different European destinations at their
choosing, one including a Dublin bender for St. Paddy’s day.
A
firey blonde ambition, with a raspy voice and the confidence of
21-year-old thirtysomethin, led the group and jumped right into her
latest conquest. Taking out her digital camera, she showed me a
picture of a dark-haired Algerian businessman in a suit with his arm
around her, kissing her on the cheek with the backdrop of a velvet
swanky club banquette. “Ok, so he’s not that cute. A bit
chubby…,” she sighed.
firey blonde ambition, with a raspy voice and the confidence of
21-year-old thirtysomethin, led the group and jumped right into her
latest conquest. Taking out her digital camera, she showed me a
picture of a dark-haired Algerian businessman in a suit with his arm
around her, kissing her on the cheek with the backdrop of a velvet
swanky club banquette. “Ok, so he’s not that cute. A bit
chubby…,” she sighed.
It was at the club Doobie’s, off
the Champs, which sounded to me more like an unhip diner rather than
some posh spot. He and his friends had invited her to their table
and had generously shared their bottle of vodka even when she had to
pick herself up off the ground after a tumble off the sofa. They
danced that night, but parted ways at the end after exchanging phone
numbers. In the 24 hours following their separation, he sent text
messages begging to see her again immediately. When she told him
she was sick in order to avoid plans, he would text “Oh you poor baby,
let me know when you’re all better.” She has stopped calling altogether
after getting the night-out she wanted. Fresh from a break-up
with her aspiring actor boyfriend, she complained her experience with
French men left her with the impression they are overly
sensitive. Her ex’s clingy habits, constant calls and whines if
she wanted a good night’s sleep didn’t allow her the freedom and
independence she said she needed.
the Champs, which sounded to me more like an unhip diner rather than
some posh spot. He and his friends had invited her to their table
and had generously shared their bottle of vodka even when she had to
pick herself up off the ground after a tumble off the sofa. They
danced that night, but parted ways at the end after exchanging phone
numbers. In the 24 hours following their separation, he sent text
messages begging to see her again immediately. When she told him
she was sick in order to avoid plans, he would text “Oh you poor baby,
let me know when you’re all better.” She has stopped calling altogether
after getting the night-out she wanted. Fresh from a break-up
with her aspiring actor boyfriend, she complained her experience with
French men left her with the impression they are overly
sensitive. Her ex’s clingy habits, constant calls and whines if
she wanted a good night’s sleep didn’t allow her the freedom and
independence she said she needed.
Only two of the
girls sitting around the low-lying tables at the converted hotel cum
bar were up for grabs in the city of love; the others were faithful to
their down-home honeys.
girls sitting around the low-lying tables at the converted hotel cum
bar were up for grabs in the city of love; the others were faithful to
their down-home honeys.
“I’m scared,” said another girl
about an aggressive Frenchman who was constantly sending her text
messages on her portable phone. “I mean, I want him this guy to
take me out and buy me drinks and take me out to dinner and everything
but I don’t want to ever, like…”
about an aggressive Frenchman who was constantly sending her text
messages on her portable phone. “I mean, I want him this guy to
take me out and buy me drinks and take me out to dinner and everything
but I don’t want to ever, like…”
“No, it’s not worth it!” squealed another.
We were by far the loudest table, catching glances and smirks from admirers at the table next door.
The
discussion then turned to the MTV “Real World” series, which is
currently being filmed in Paris. It’s a reality show about
strangers picked to live in a dream location to find out what happens
when people stop being polite, a show that will guarantee to up the
in-your-face quotient of Americana, drama queens and kings told to play
up their attitudes and voices for the sake of the lens. It is
doubtful this will ease relations between the culture-clashing
nations. “I just want to be able to say that I met them,” the
jock said.
discussion then turned to the MTV “Real World” series, which is
currently being filmed in Paris. It’s a reality show about
strangers picked to live in a dream location to find out what happens
when people stop being polite, a show that will guarantee to up the
in-your-face quotient of Americana, drama queens and kings told to play
up their attitudes and voices for the sake of the lens. It is
doubtful this will ease relations between the culture-clashing
nations. “I just want to be able to say that I met them,” the
jock said.
Unavoidably, the conversation gave way to the
current Franco-American tensions. “A guy from the French military
pointed a gun at me,” said the bold one. “That was scary,” remembered
her friend who was with her at the time. “It was funny,” the bold one
laughed off.
current Franco-American tensions. “A guy from the French military
pointed a gun at me,” said the bold one. “That was scary,” remembered
her friend who was with her at the time. “It was funny,” the bold one
laughed off.
They had been out for the night, all gussied
up, enjoying an evening of fine French wines, laughing and taking up
air space, when they passed guards in front of a building.
Recognizing immediately they were Americans, the “cute” armed men
thought it might be a good tease to flirt at gunpoint.
up, enjoying an evening of fine French wines, laughing and taking up
air space, when they passed guards in front of a building.
Recognizing immediately they were Americans, the “cute” armed men
thought it might be a good tease to flirt at gunpoint.
(Perhaps
it was, indeed, a harmless act, but I know that with the increasing
tensions here, tension that I myself have felt among friends who have
been invited to my own home, this is no time for loaded jokes.)
it was, indeed, a harmless act, but I know that with the increasing
tensions here, tension that I myself have felt among friends who have
been invited to my own home, this is no time for loaded jokes.)
When
the last crunches had left only candy crumbs, the ladies moved the
party down the street, across rue de Rivoli towards the river to La
Perla, not the lingerie store, but rather a pseudo Mexican
bar-restaurant stretched with fake plastic trees and plants, a less
than life plastic sailfish, and a plastic ‘cerveza pacifico’ life
preserver hung over the mirrored bar detailing the Mexican wine and
margarita specials in red. It was not a particularly lively
clientele, except, of course, for our table of six American girls.
the last crunches had left only candy crumbs, the ladies moved the
party down the street, across rue de Rivoli towards the river to La
Perla, not the lingerie store, but rather a pseudo Mexican
bar-restaurant stretched with fake plastic trees and plants, a less
than life plastic sailfish, and a plastic ‘cerveza pacifico’ life
preserver hung over the mirrored bar detailing the Mexican wine and
margarita specials in red. It was not a particularly lively
clientele, except, of course, for our table of six American girls.
When
I asked them the bars they frequented to meet these elusive French men,
who “cross their legs like women,” “smoke incessantly” and “wear black
turtlenecks,” one answered, “I’d like to know.” They have all
found it difficult to integrate here, and those who have found
boyfriends have been dissatisfied with the amount of freedom they allow
them or the lack of good-old American machismo displayed by this
culture. With their slight frames and delicate hands, it would be
a tough match in the ring should they set up their homeland loves
against the Euros to have at it. They were even less thrilled at
the prospect of the American guys here in the city, those on their
study abroad programs or those they have met hiding in the Anglophone
pubs like the Frog and Princess.
I asked them the bars they frequented to meet these elusive French men,
who “cross their legs like women,” “smoke incessantly” and “wear black
turtlenecks,” one answered, “I’d like to know.” They have all
found it difficult to integrate here, and those who have found
boyfriends have been dissatisfied with the amount of freedom they allow
them or the lack of good-old American machismo displayed by this
culture. With their slight frames and delicate hands, it would be
a tough match in the ring should they set up their homeland loves
against the Euros to have at it. They were even less thrilled at
the prospect of the American guys here in the city, those on their
study abroad programs or those they have met hiding in the Anglophone
pubs like the Frog and Princess.
“American guys who come here are, like, philosophers,” said one.
“Or gay,” said another. (That doesn’t help their case either.)
“The
one thing that’s keeping me from moving back to France is the amount of
boys,” said the jock. The athletic singleton had only one French
kiss of which to speak. They needed the language of love to
communicate, for neither her French nor his English was getting them
where they needed to go. A woman at the bar where they met acted
as translator before the couple gave up talking and locked lips for
their first and only. Summing it up she said, “That’s why we eat
what we want because there are no boys in this country,” as she dug
into her burrito.
one thing that’s keeping me from moving back to France is the amount of
boys,” said the jock. The athletic singleton had only one French
kiss of which to speak. They needed the language of love to
communicate, for neither her French nor his English was getting them
where they needed to go. A woman at the bar where they met acted
as translator before the couple gave up talking and locked lips for
their first and only. Summing it up she said, “That’s why we eat
what we want because there are no boys in this country,” as she dug
into her burrito.
At La Perla, the food was not as
dazzling as my company and lacked presentation and umph. The
girls all ordered the same beef burrito, except the smart blond, who
ordered the spinach burrito (with a questionably French goat cheese
addition), and I successfully went out on a limb with reasonably priced
lobster quesedillas with papaya for 8,95E. They were two shapely
half-moons stuffed delicately with cheese, onions, red peppers, fish
and papaya, served with a cool and spicy mango sauce unpleasantly
discolored white by the overpowering overhead red lights.
dazzling as my company and lacked presentation and umph. The
girls all ordered the same beef burrito, except the smart blond, who
ordered the spinach burrito (with a questionably French goat cheese
addition), and I successfully went out on a limb with reasonably priced
lobster quesedillas with papaya for 8,95E. They were two shapely
half-moons stuffed delicately with cheese, onions, red peppers, fish
and papaya, served with a cool and spicy mango sauce unpleasantly
discolored white by the overpowering overhead red lights.
When
the (expensive) glass pitcher of Margaritas had become transparent, the
girls all had a cigarette as they discussed papers and homework they
needed to turn in to get by with their classes. I gathered that
much more time is spent outside of the classroom than in, which seems
in line with my own junior-yea- abroad experience. I was
expecting a little more craziness from their stories, but apparently
that is reserved for late-nights in Barcelona with a tan Australian,
hazy Amsterdam run-ins at the coffee shops and pancake houses, and
Irish blokes who win the lottery buying blinding pint after stumbling
pint for his new mates.
the (expensive) glass pitcher of Margaritas had become transparent, the
girls all had a cigarette as they discussed papers and homework they
needed to turn in to get by with their classes. I gathered that
much more time is spent outside of the classroom than in, which seems
in line with my own junior-yea- abroad experience. I was
expecting a little more craziness from their stories, but apparently
that is reserved for late-nights in Barcelona with a tan Australian,
hazy Amsterdam run-ins at the coffee shops and pancake houses, and
Irish blokes who win the lottery buying blinding pint after stumbling
pint for his new mates.
These privileged women
are transient guests, bound by college-campus mentality where comfort
holds them back from truly exploring life here. Naturally, the
bilingual dream is to share the experience with someone of the culture
to really comprehend life on a more complete level, but breaking into
the social circles here is less than easy, and takes much longer than
four-months. It is true that each one will bring back memories,
posters, journals, and even a few extra pounds from her visit, but
their short stay is only a taste of what another life can be life,
which is already a good start for being a global citizen. I was
confronted by a French houseguest last night who joked that the war in
Iraq was “probably a good thing for Americans because it will at least
allow the soldiers to see a country other than their own.”
are transient guests, bound by college-campus mentality where comfort
holds them back from truly exploring life here. Naturally, the
bilingual dream is to share the experience with someone of the culture
to really comprehend life on a more complete level, but breaking into
the social circles here is less than easy, and takes much longer than
four-months. It is true that each one will bring back memories,
posters, journals, and even a few extra pounds from her visit, but
their short stay is only a taste of what another life can be life,
which is already a good start for being a global citizen. I was
confronted by a French houseguest last night who joked that the war in
Iraq was “probably a good thing for Americans because it will at least
allow the soldiers to see a country other than their own.”
So where are your daughters at midnight, 6pm EST? They are heading to bed.
Sidebar
–
Les Etages 35, rue Vielle du Temple, 4th, M˚ St Paul or Hôtel de Ville,
01.42.78.72.00 Open M-F 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun noon-2am.
Branch: 5, rue de Buci, 6th, M˚ Mabillon – great terrace and same
amazingly crunchy nuts
– La Perla Bar 26, rue François Miron, 4th, M˚ Hôtel de Ville, 01 42 77 59 40 Open daily noon-2am, Food served noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight
– Frog and Princess – 9 rue Princess, 6th, M˚ Mabillon, 01.40.51.77.38 Open M-F 5.30pm-2am; Sat, Sun noon-2am.
– Doobie’s 2, rue Robert Estienne, 8th, M˚ Franklin D Roosevelt 01.53.76.10.76 Open daily 9pm-dawn.