Chartres

There are many treasures to be seen outside of Paris–interesting villages, imposing châteaux, and magnificent cathedrals. One of the most breathtaking of these is the cathedral of Our Lady of Chartres, whose two towers rise majestically to dominate the wheat fields of the surrounding countryside. A Gothic masterpiece built eight centuries ago to honor the Virgin Mary, Chartres cathedral is only an hour’s train ride from the Gare Montparnasse in Paris.   Crowds of visitors come to Chartres to see the cathedral and peer through the dark, vaulted space  at the world-famous stained glass, admiring especially the “Chartres blue,” which has not been duplicated in modern times.   The town of Chartres was a center for the cult of the Virgin throughout the Middle Ages, as it possessed a statue of Mary reportedly carved by St. Luke, as well as the “Sacred Tunic,” supposedly worn by the Virgin at the time of the birth of Christ. Now it is one of most famous cathedrals in France, a splendid example of the “High Gothic” style of architecture. (The facade, however, is early Gothic; it was rebuilt after a fire.) Visitors will see that the floor of the cathedral slopes down near the front entrance; pilgrims slept at the cathedral, and the floors were washed off afterwards, the water flowing out the door. Embedded in the cathedral’s stone floor is one of the world’s most famous labyrinths, a winding path that stretches the width of the cathedral’s nave and twists and arcs through 11 concentric circles. The labyrinth at Chartres was built around 1200 and is laid into the floor in a style sometimes referred to as a pavement maze. The original centerpiece has been removed, and other areas of the labyrinth have been restored. This labyrinth was meant to be walked. In the past it could be walked as a pilgrimage and/or for repentance. As a pilgrimage it was a questing, searching journey with the hope of becoming closer to God. When it was used for repentance the pilgrims would walk on their knees. Sometimes this 11-circuit labyrinth would serve as a substitute for an actual pilgrimage to Jerusalem, and as a result it came to be called the “Chemin de Jerusalem,” or Road of Jerusalem.  In walking the Chartres style labyrinth one meanders through each of the four quadrants several times before reaching the goal at the center: a rosette design that is rich in symbolism, including that of enlightenment. The four arms of the Christian cross are also visible. Those interested in walking the labyrinth today must do so on Fridays, when all of the chairs that cover it are removed. Visitors can also explore the subterranean chapels and crypt; tickets for guided tours are available at the bookshop outside and toward the back of the cathedral.  Just beyond the bookshop are the cathedral’s apse and a pretty garden overlooking part of the old town.  One of the best ways to see the cathedral is to take one of two tours offered by Malcolm Miller.  An Englishman, Mr. Miller has lived in Chartres for many years, making the study of the cathedral his life’s work.  He has been conducting tours for more than four decades, enlightening many thousands of visitors about the cathedral’s history, archicture, and treasures.  The tours, which run an hour and a quarter, are given daily except Sunday at noon and at 2:45 P.M. To Mr. Miller, “Chartres is like a modern public library except that the texts are in stained glass and sculpture instead. No one person can claim to have read all the books in a library! Almost 70, and having guided here for 45 years I am still learning!”  Mr. Miller came to Chartres as a student and returned to teach, never dreaming he would someday be giving daily tours and would have written five books about the cathedral. You can tell, while taking one of his tours, that he loves to teach.  It is wonderful to sit in an area of the church and have Mr. Miller point out different architectural components of the church or “read” an ancient stained glass window, top to bottom, left to right.  The town of Chartres itself is a nice bonus; narrow, winding streets head downhill from the cathedral to the river, where ancient stones can still be seen standing. A map obtained from the tourist center gives an interesting, self-guided walking tour of the village. You can take a 3 Km walk to explore the sites of ancient Chartres; signs are posted to lead visitors along the way.  The stroll begins at the cathedral; turn left, and you will find the Centre International du Vitrail (an exhibition and research center of stained glass).  Go back to the cathedral, and behind it you will find the Musée des Beaux-Arts, a museum housing 12 paintings of the apostles by Leonard Limousin.  Continue through the gardens and you will reach la Fontaine de St.-André, which was once the main water supply for the city.  Then you follow the river until you reach the Reine Blanche, which is famous for its sculpted wooden staircase.  Nearby is the Eglise de St.-Pierre with its wonderful stained glass windows.  Next, follow the hill to the Maison de l’Archeologie and then to rue de la Poissonnière before returning to the cathedral. Practical information: Reservations are not needed for Malcolm Miller’s public tours–just wait by the bookshop at noon or 2:45. Information: (33-2) 37.28.15.58, fax (33-2) 37.28.33.03. Cost: 10 euros, and more than worth it. Trains to Chartres from Paris leave the Gare Montparnasse at least once an hour. The fare is $14, and the trip typically takes a little over an hour.  The walk from the train station in Chartres to the cathedral takes just about ten minutes. The noted restaurant La Vieille Maison is on one of the narrow streets near the cathedral, in a historic building dating from the 14th century. The food is wonderful. 5 rue au Lait (tel. 02-37-34-10-67).  Moulin de Ponceau, on the river below the cathedral, is a great place for lunch (if you arrive before the 2:00 p.m. closing). — Linda Mathieu, formerly from Austin, Texas, is a professional journalist and photographer. Owner of Paris Photo Tours , she delights in taking tourists around Paris, showing them her favorite views and photo ops. She is currently at work on a book of her photography with a light-hearted look…