Where We’re Eating Now in Paris: Marcore Maison de Cuisine, Edern, Chez Julien, Le Volnay

8 November 2019 by Margaret Kemp    1508  
Where We’re Eating Now in Paris: Marcore Maison de Cuisine, Edern, Chez Julien, Le Volnay
Margaret Kemp
By Margaret Kemp
“Change everything, without changing anything,”– Alain Ducasse Marcore Maison de Cuisine Marc Favier, former second to Jean François Piège at Le Crillon, then executive chef at Thoumieux, proudly presents Marcore (the name a combo of Marc Favier and his adorable wife Audrélie Alary). It’s located on a charming cobblestone street near the Bourse. The former Le Versance restaurant has been totally transformed by the owners and Champeau&Wilde. At street level the 25-seater bar with a bistronomic chic vibe serves from Monday to Friday with dinner on Saturday (from about €28-€36). L’Etage is on the first floor; note the magnificent stained glass windows, so romantic. The starched tablecloths show a more gastronomic spin. The lunch formula’s €36-€48 Tasting Menu €80 with 3 wine pairings add €45 with 4 glasses add €60. Look for Clos des Capucins 2015 Domaine Fiona Beeston’s perfectly drinkable, unfiltered, Loire red (€48). The chef has a special signature and a fantastic list of suppliers, “seasonal ingredients are the key”, he insists. As in Brittany crab, lemon-cucumber-tarragon, frosted Tanqueray gin/ allspice pepper. Mains include Marc’s signature sweetbreads, matched according to the season with chanterelles, porcini mushrooms or Alba truffles. Tender Brittany lobster is flavor packed with fennel à l’orange, bourride sauce and citrus powder. Candied sea bass with olive oil, beetroot, gooseberry pickles, herb condiments, or choose the Finistère pigeon flash fried, accompanied by mashed corn, popcorn with bacon and olive oil jus. Seasonal cheese by MOF Bernard Mure-Ravaud, bread from Panifica, rue Trudaine. Still room for dessert? Creamy papua chocolate, passion fruit, Earl Grey, and other delights by pâtissier Pierre. 1 rue des Panoramas, 2nd Metro: Bourse/Grands Boulevards Tel: +33 (0)1 45 08 00 08 Open Christmas and New Year’s Eve with special festive menus. Closed Saturday-Sunday Edern Jean-Edern Hurstel (Gordon Ramsay, Senderens, Passard, Le Peninsula etc) launched his eponymous address, just off the Champs Elysées, a year ago, but, with the arrival of the perilous yellow jackets, admits he nearly closed, with the stress and discomfort. “Well happily we survived,” he told us one day last week. “We tweaked the menu, making it simpler and cheaper, and I’m happy to say we’re full most of the time.” It’s a lovely contemporary space where joyful pop art punctuates the walls (formerly Gilles Epie’s Citrus Etoile) with a Formula One Ferrari above the kitchen door! Bright decor’s by English architect Paul Bishop, and below stairs a sexy cigar bar and attractive club-like cocktail lounge awaits. Starters – to share or not – include Bao Bun/black angus beef/coriander (€11), truffled pizza (€18), Mediterranean Hummus (€8), crispy langoustine/honey and soy vinaigrette (€15). Mains include Linguine and blue lobster (€69), Catch of the Day, miso caramelized salmon (€26), tuna tataki (€32), crispy panko chicken breast (€28), and rib of Galician beef, all served with zucchini, mashed potatoes or homemade fries. For dessert, try the apple pie, chocolate pudding, or the signature creme brulée Okinawa with Café Ice Cream (€10). Lunch €36 and €45 à la carte about 60 €. 6 rue Arsene Houssaye, 8th. Metro: Charles de Gaulle, Etoile Closed Sunday-Monday Tel: +33 (0)1 45 63 88 01 Chez Julien The last time I was at Chez Julien, in the chic Marais district, it was difficult to concentrate on the food – the actor Jean Dujardin was at a nearby table! Classified as a Historical Monument, Chez Julien (since 1780) is located in the shadow of the majestic Saint Gervais Church. The charming two-story former boulangerie was recently redecorated by interior architect Gérard Cholet preserving the Belle Epoque style décor, marble bar, velvet banquettes and quirky chandeliers. We begin with champagne (Langlet Brut Grande Reserve €14). Chef Derbal showcases truffles with almost everything. I order French “Jouno” tomatoes, organic poached egg, burrata emulsion, fresh herbs, topped with crunchy truffle slices (€14 with truffles €19). Patrick’s crab, avocado, guacamole, mango and cucumber (€16 / €21 with truffles) is spot on. The wine list reads well: white La Moynerie – Pouilly Fumé Michel Redde 2017 (€52) and Morgon – Côte du Py Cuvée Joseph from Domaine Gaget (€55) or Pomerol Petrus (€3,900) Pavilon rouge du Château Margaux – a mere €350. For the main, it’s Veal tartar, truffle caviar and green salad (€38). And I’m in truffle heaven with slim pillows of 6 cheese ravioli “Enoteca” (€34) bathed in creamy truffle sauce. Or carve your way into signature “Chateaubriand Chez Julien” and golden hand cut chips (€38). A pot of perky Sarawack pepper sauce adds the final touch. We finish with syrupy, brioche, salty caramel whipped cream (€12) and astringent lemon and raspberry sablé tart (€14). I’m really tempted by Monsieur Bordier’s truffled Brie de Meaux (€19) – perhaps next time! And, by the way, no sign of Jean Dujardin! I make diary note to see his next film J’Accuse, from November 13th. 1 Rue du Pont Louis-Philippe, 75004 Open 7/7 Metro: Pont Marie (Line7) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 78 31 64 Le Volnay Here’s an old favorite, an under the radar address, minutes from Lucas Carton, the iconic flagship of the late great chef Alain Senderens. Try the Senderens tribute dish of Veal & Langoustine Tartare, wasabi mayo, angel hair and lemon zests (as a starter €25…
  • SUBSCRIBE
  • ALREADY SUBSCRIBED?

Lead photo credit : Marcore

Previous Article Windmills and Wine: A Moulin Rouge Themed Walking Tour of Montmartre
Next Article Marking Armistice Day with Films on the Great War

By Margaret Kemp

Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !