What Do Two Hearts Mean? Redux

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What Do Two Hearts Mean? Redux
Back in 2006, I wrote on this subject for the first time and due to some recent meals I’m prompted to do so again. First, some explanation. I’m using Emmanuel Rubin and his 1-4 hearts rating system (in April, along with Figaroscope’s redesign it’s become 1-3), because along with the Berger-Toinard team at A Nous Paris, he’s one of the few French critics with the guts to rank/rate new restos (Alexander Lobrano does likewise in English). But I could equally well discuss others. It’s pretty clear when Rubin gives a place a broken/busted plate what he thinks of it; likewise 3 or 4 hearts. Even a one heart, meaning “wait just a second,” seems a clear advisory. But two hearts, where a lot of places wind up, seems to be the most puzzling. Let me give some examples. This year, Rubin had, before the redesign/renumbering, rated 15 places serving French-French food as having two hearts. Discarding the burger/truffles/out-of-the-tin/see-and-be seen branché places we have twelve: Le Bouchon et l’Assiette, La Vieille, La Conserverie, Percolateur, l’Agrume, Le Restaurant, Bistro Volnay, La Grille, Les Petits Plats, Le P’tit Musset, le Bistro du XXe, Le Botaniste. You have chefs ranging from the famous (Del Burgo) to well-known owners-concepteurs (Frederick Grasser Hermé) to the “where did he come from?” guys; from brand-new places (l’Agrume) to retreads (Bistro Volnay, Le Botaniste + La Grille). But more than that sort of range, there’s the spread in quality. At the top of the line, in my opinion, are the nice-looking places serving good food, like La Vieille where Del Burgo is back at the height of his form after years of drifting around. (P.S. After the reviews came out, a sharp-eyed neighbor reported that his prices suddenly zoomed and now said same neighbor reports he will soon decamp for Hong Kong.) Then one has a place that seems to have become an overnight success more by word of mouth than reviewers’ reactions – l’Agrume – which continues to pump out good chow without perspiring at all. There are several fine classic and reasonably priced bistros located convenient to me but I suspect not to visitors – Le Bouchon et l’Assiette, Le Percolateur + Les Petits Plats, which I think show what your Parisian chefs can do with very simple but good stuff. Flottes O. Tremont, I’m afraid, is too precious and too sophisticated for the likes of me, Le Restaurant good but not great enough to return and Le P’tit Musset + Le Botaniste are tired retreads, whereas the Bistrot Volnay + La Grille stay solid above-average places by my lights, their “rebooting” having been most successful. In both cases, the décor hasn’t changed; with the Bistrot Volnay there’s definitely a new feel to the menu, whereas at La Grille it seems like yesterday – and a good thing that too. Another 2-heart from yesterday is the Bistrot du 20eme which successfully presents 1950s food with contemporary sensibilities – that is, seasonal products, locavore sourcing and clever décor. Now, no discussion of grading would be complete without pointing out differences of opinion; by me, I think Rubin and Simon over-rated Rino and missed out on l’Aromatik & P’tit Caillou. But these are but minor quibbles among competitive food nuts. My favorite this week is: Le Bouchon et l’Assiette127, rue Cardinet in the 17th (Metro: Malesherbes)T:01.42.27.83.93Closed Sunday and Mondays3-course “menu” at 33 on weekdays, a la carte about 36 €. ©2010 John A. Talbott With their exclusive selection of handmade French chocolates, zChocolat will redefine what you consider to be chocolate. Please post your comments or questions and let them flow. Register HERE to do so if you need a Bonjour Paris user name and password.
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