Tasting German Rieslings

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Tasting German Rieslings
A recent tasting of mostly Riesling wines, hosted by the German Embassy in Washington, D.C., was an excellent opportunity for wine lovers to expand their knowledge. GiraMondo Wine Events arranged the evening. Phil Bernstein of MacArthur Beverages conducted the seminar. So many people registered for it that it had to be given twice. Mr. Bernstein left no one in any suspense regarding his personal preferences. He said German wines have been excellent for years, probably due to the effects of climate warming. Because these wines are produced in northern latitudes, they’ve benefitted from warmer weather. Vintages used to be fairly iffy, but there hasn’t been a mediocre vintage since the year 2000. Bernstein explained that German wines, predominantly white wines and largely Riesling, are comparatively low in alcoholic content. This is a relief to people who don’t like overoaked white wines. In addition, these wines are comparatively inexpensive. The mysteries of the German Wine Classification had everyone scribbling notes. Beyond Tafelwein (ordinary table wine), there is Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbagebiete (QbA), an initial quality level. It’s the second category, Qualitätswein mit Prädiket (QmP), that is of greater quality. The three types of wine, Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese, vary in ripeness or increasing degrees of sweetness. That is because the later the grapes are harvested, the sweeter the wine will be. Mr. Bernstein poured several wines, each of them made from 100% Riesling grapes. A 2007 Merkelbach Kabinett Urziger Wurzgarten from the Mosel valley (retail $18) is a “textbook” Kabinett, with some underlying acidity that keeps the wine fresh and not too sweet. The 2007 Strub Niersteiner Spatlese Paterberg from Rheinhessen (retail $22) was sweeter but also had more character, a nice balance and is a complex wine. The tasting prize went to the 2007 vintage of Dr. Loosen Auslese Wehlener Sonnenuhri from the Mosel region (retail $45). It’s an excellent and very smooth wine, which is on the sweet side. Bernstein said the Dr. Loosen estate is one of the finest white wine producers in Germany. The wine could age for perhaps fifteen years, during which time it would become dryer. “The wines never get bone dry, but they do become dryer.” We also tasted wines that have been left on the vine until botrytis developed, producing fine dessert wines. Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese are equivalent to French Sauternes wines. The Eiswein (ice wine), which is also produced in Canada, is a special taste that complements mild desserts. In this case, the grapes are picked after they have frozen on the vine! The 2007 Selbach Eiswein Himmelreich from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (retail $70) is a good quality sweet wine, which, like a fine Sauternes, would go very well with foie gras or blue cheeses. The tasting then continued with both German and Asian nibbles. We had the chance to talk with new friends and compare wines. My own point of comparison was the fine Riesling wines of Alsace, Hugel and Trimbach. German wines tend to be sweeter, particularly the Auslese. Reflecting on the experience, our new friends were pleased to have German wines somewhat demystified. We suspect Mr. Bernstein might be right about well-cellared Auslese wines—a treat to taste and, for the time being, still affordable. If you’re going to France or Germany (or for that matter anywhere) you can reserve your hotel here. To rent a car, Bonjour Paris recommends Auto Europe.
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