Tao-Kan, 20 Peas, Lebey Launches Chez Lasserre, Michelin Tokyo 2013 & Shangri La’s Beautiful Bûche de Noël Buzz

4 December 2012 by Margaret Kemp    1096  
Margaret Kemp
By Margaret Kemp
Returning to Paris, after many years spent in the east, Christophe Daine searched for a restaurant serving dishes that evoked his memories of China, Taiwan and Hong Kong. Impossible! So, although Daine is not a chef or restaurateur, he decided to launch his own address, to at least be able to eat the way he wanted. Tao Kan (named for the mythical Chinese hero) will reinvent the codes, create something completely different, while remaining faithful to its’ oriental origins. Bright, calm, contemporary décor, for the three rooms, is by architects Hélene and Olivier Lempereur. Chef Tien-Dat Au (ex-chez Madame Ly) took up the challenge fielded by Daine. He works with his team in an open glass and steel kitchen, in itself a rarity for Chinese restaurants, producing and interpreting délices reflecting Canton, Shanghai, passing by Taipei. The menu includes feather light Dim Sum maison using seasonal vegetables. Chef’s proud of his crispy salmon and shrimp Spring Rolls. There’s salade d’algues Wakame Hai Cao Sha or Potage poulet vermicelles Fen Si Tang. Poulet crispy Ju Li Ji or Pavé de Saumon vapeur Zheng Yu Riz sauté aux légumes Su Chao Fan or Nouilles sautées au soja Chao Miang. For dessert look no further than Perles de Coco or Crėpes thé vert, chocolat chaud, or fresh fruits.  Haine intends to bring in young patissiers to create appropriate desserts in keeping with the Tao Kan concept. If you’re looking for a voyage of discovery – you’re there. Tao-Kan8 rue de Sabot 6thT: 01 42 84 18 36Metro: Saint-Germain des Pres,Menus from 22-37€Shut SundayValet Parking Twenty Peas Working in London young chef Claire Menini found a twenty pence coin while walking in Hyde Park.“Twenty P” as the english call it soon became 20 PEAS and Claire’s future cantine had a name.  Soon after an atmospheric space became available in the Quartier Malesherbes and Claire’s idea of a “cantine chic et pas cher” began to take shape. “I wanted 20 Peas to look like an English tea-room and for everything to be under glass. I work with a chef and chef pâtissier to create delicious healthy dishes that people of this quartier want to eat, in a friendly atmosphere, or order for the office or take home”, Claire explains. Dishes, change daily, there’s always a soup brimming with herbs which can be followed with the meat or fish dish of the day. Scones, both sweet and savoury, are served as a side. But watch out, portions are trencherman size! Pommes de terre grenaille rôties au thym, citron et sauge. Roasted aubergines, chopped tomatoes, feta napped with fresh basil and pecan roasted sweet potatoes are signatures. To follow cheese and a glass of Anjou rouge (4.50 a glass) or cheesecake, chocolate cake, cookies and crumbles. Will there be more 20 Peas? “Certainly, I hope so”, grins Claire. “Very soon!” TWENTY PEASTable d’Amis59 rue des Mathurins, 8thM: AugustinT: 01 42 66 26 13Average spend 13-14€Open Mon-Fri 8.30-20.30 2013 Lebey launches at Lasserre The 27th edition of Le Guide Lebey launched this week at Restaurant Lasserre. At 90 years of age Claude Lebey is the doyen of restaurant critics, founder of Guide Lebey, and chairperson of the prestigious Association de sauvegarde de l’œuf mayo (ASOM). Lebey chronicles what he’s tasted, hates wasting time at table, is thin as a rail. Says the secret is to: “just taste and smell, I eat very little”. Monsieur Lebey remembers Lasserre’s history well, as a young pilot in WW11 he looked forward to getting something decent to eat, chez René Lasserre. To celebrate the 70 years there’s a special anniversary menu “hommage to all the grands chefs that have helped make Lasserre a heavenly experience, especially when the roof opens and you look up, yeah! The menu: – Caviar et laitue en délicate royale2010 Christophe Moret – Macaroni à la truffe noire et foie gras de canard2001 Jean-Louis Nomicos – Dos de bar, légumes vivement sautés, vinaigre thaï2012 Christophe Moret – Lièvre à la royale, salade de mâche1980 Bernard Joinville – 1999 Michel Roth – 2002 Jean-Louis Nomicos – Comté de grande réserve (pain toasté avec beurre et noix – madère sec) – Coco-pamplemousse2012 Claire Heitzler – Timbale Elysée Lasserre1956 Auguste Perrot – Café et mignardises – wines by Antoine Petrus 195 € par personne, hors boisson. Lasserre, (2 Eiffel Towers and a heart in Lebey)17 avenue Franklin-Roosevelt, 8M: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau,Shut Tues-Wed-Sat lunch & Sun-MonT: 01 43 59 02 13 2013 pink guide gives awards for best savoury dishes to Jean Franҫois Piège for Calmars sauvage à la carbonara. Claude Colliot for Filets de Maquereaux à la plancha and Alain Solivères of Taillevent for his Mousseline de pomme de terre ratte, oeuf de poule et truffe noir. We love Lebey. Le Guide Lebey des RestaurantsDe Paris et sa Banlieue 2013Albin MichelPrice: 15.90€In kiosques and on Need to know:MICHELIN Guide Tokyo Yokohama Shonan 201315 restaurants with three stars,58 with two stars (plus 1 ryokan)And 214 with one star (including 1 ryokan) The Guide includes a total of 350 establishments of which 286 are restaurants, 52 hotels and 12 ryokans. From the one-star Bird Court, to Bulgari via Ducasse’s Beige a stimulating and exciting selection of incredible addys. The sixth edition of the guide to the Kanto region adds 22 new restaurants, showing that, year after year, the quality of Japanese cooking continues to surprise. 15 restaurants have three stars, with the shuttering Araki out of the running and Hamadaya demoted to 2-stars. 6 new Tokyo restaurants win two-stars. Among the new one-stars 14 are located in…
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By Margaret Kemp

Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !