Paris Restaurants: (V)ivre, Zebra, Brasserie Lorraine, Le Bistrot du Peintre, Nomicos

13 August 2018 by Margaret Kemp    2998  
Paris Restaurants: (V)ivre, Zebra, Brasserie Lorraine, Le Bistrot du Peintre, Nomicos
Margaret Kemp
By Margaret Kemp
“Knowledge is knowing tomato’s a fruit; wisdom is not putting it in the fruit salad.” –Miles Kington (1941-2008) (V)ivre “From potager to plate” could be the mission statement of Caroline Savoy (daughter of the three-star chef) and Bruno Blain, her wine guru partner. We love their Opéra Garnier bistro and adore the just launched shabby chic Canal Saint Martin address. The product-centric couple spend every spare moment seeking out independent suppliers giving them starring roles on their excellent website. On the flagstone walls, there’s modern art and in the kitchen, young talents Julien Didier and pastry chef Alex Rochel. Pop in on Wednesday for Pot au Feu, Thursday for Blanquette de Veau, and there’s Bouillabaisse on Friday and Saturday, rognons (kidneys – flamed with Calvados and honey, served with sweet potato purée (dish of the day €16). Brunch (€39) on Sunday (when the quartier is traffic free) is a feast ; the bread’s from Maison Landemaine, coffee by L’Arbre a Café and tea’s selected by Gilles Brochard. Menus €39, €59, €65, €98 (with wine pairings) + A La Carte about €42 + wine. See you there ! 60 rue de Lancry, 10th M: Jacques Bonsergent T : 01 42 40 73 38 Open Wednesday to Saturday lunch & dinner Sunday Brunch http://www.restaurant-vivre.com/ Zebra The grey slate state of the art building that was Zebra Square, created in 1997 by Patrick Deridian, is now “Zebra.” The location, overlooking the Seine and Radio France, across the bridge from the Beaugrenelle Mall, has dramatic decor by Olivier Delannoy and Francesca Errico showcasing a hip neo-brasserie, terrace and cocktail bar. Behind this revamp, Alexandre Giesbert and Julien Ross, who transformed the former Galerie Vivienne Jean Paul Gaultier flagship into Daroco, a high-end trattoria, now joined by Roman Glize the third musketeer. The signatures have been revised and corrected and there’s a lunchtime seasonal semainier “dish of the day” (€19) from Monday to Friday. Not that hungry? Oysters at the bar with a glass of white? Divine desserts by Fleur Guinaudeau include praline millefeuille, rhubarbe and raspberry vacherin and house made ice creams and sorbets. Nice with a flute of Brut Réserve, Champagne Lallier, R.104 (€12). For a chic nightcap, Zebra Bar’s cocktails are signed Nico de Soto, the influencer and genius mixologist. Moscow Mule Wyborova Vodka, Sirop de Gingembre, lime, soda…shake, shake, shake. Average spend €45-€65 Need to Know: It’s in the same building as Hotel Square (from about €244 – double room) + Nuxe Spa. 3, Place Clement Ader, 16th M: Ranelagh Open 7/7 T: 01 44 14 91 91 http://www.zebra.paris Brasserie Lorraine Created in 1919 on Place des Ternes, the legendary Parisian brasserie has been acquired by Groupe Bertrand and revamped by interior architect Laura Gonzalez with a discreet bucolic terrace and wonderful atmosphere. La Lorraine classics are the freshest seafood and fish cooked to perfection by chef Gérard Delaunay, served with extreme TLC by Joaquim Braz and his team. “The menu changes weekly offering the bounty of the oceans and farms,” says the elegant Monsieur Braz whose eyes are everywhere and seductively offers a welcome coupe de champagne. If there’s oysters by Joël Dupuch, go for it. Or, begin with a traditional plateau of Fruits de Mer prepared by Rabah Guechoud, Champion de France d’Ecaillers (read: über oyster shucker) from €20.95 to €128.80 and to take away. Or six Label Rouge Burgundy snails, Goat cheese and vegetable millefeuille crumble, Rockfish soup with rouille and golden croutons. If you’re lucky there’s Araignée de Mer or roasted clams. According to the catch, mains may include Sea Bream with baby vegetables or Cod Brandade, mesclun salad. Carnivores, do not despair there’s soothing Veal confit or Grilled Rump Steak, Béarnaise and French fries. Finish with Grand Marnier Soufflé – what else, alors!? 2, place des Ternes, 8th M : Ternes, T : 01 56 21 22 00 Menus from €28-€36 or A La Carte Open 7/7 http://www.brasserielorraine.com Le Bistrot du Peintre This gorgeous authentic Art Nouveau bistrot, near the Bastille, opened in 1902, and ticks all the boxes. Hervé Bonal the present owner – from the Cantal region – knows the place well. He began here in 1991 as a waiter, was promoted to director and, dear reader, liked the place so much – eventually returned and bought it! The cellars are stocked with excellent vintages. Bonal is the President of Le Vin du Moment, a brand he created to supply wine to restaurants and oenophiles, and on the blackboard are at least 35 interesting glasses (about €12 per) listed daily, so make sure you can find your way to the metro post tasting! Today we sipped subtle rosé from Domaine de L’Ille de Porquerolles (€6.50 glass, €20 carafe, €30 bottle). Cheffe Géraldine Rumeau (who trained at La Tour d’Argent and 1728, rue d’Anjou) sends out all your soothing bistro favorites revised and corrected for 2018: French onion soup, 6 very big snails from La Butte, Marinated salmon, gravlax, Croque Monsieur, Cheese and Fishburgers with golden French fries, Cheese and Rum Baba, Chantilly etc. Weekday Lunch Formula €18-€24 or A La Carte. Average spend €30 + wine. 116 avenue Ledru-Rollin, 11th M: Ledru-Rollin T: 01 47 00 34 39 Terrace Breakfast, pl.us Happy Hour from 17hrs-20hrs, Coupe of Pannier Champagne €7. Open 7/7 http://bistrotdupeintre.com/en Nomicos Les Tablettes de Jean-Louis Nomicos is now simply “Nomicos” with edgy décor by interior architect Marie Deroudhilhe (who honed her craft with Terence Conran, London and Patrick Jouin,…
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By Margaret Kemp

Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !