Monte Carlo Bay and Resort Buzz

30 May 2007 by Margaret Kemp    425  
Monte Carlo Bay and Resort Buzz
Margaret Kemp
By Margaret Kemp
  Marcel Ravin was born on the French Caribbean isle of Martinique where he graduated from Hotel School with flying colours. In France his brilliant culinary career began at Chateau Isembourg, Alsace, continued, through the vineyards, to Eastern France and Lyon. In Brussels, at L’Epicerie restaurant, he met Sergio Mangini. Mangini was well impressed with Ravin and, when he became Director of the awesome “made in Las Vegas”  Monte Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort, invited Ravin to head the state-of-the-art kitchens and restaurants. With Ravin’s talent The Blue Bay restaurant is the address for Monaco’s culinary elite. Ravin lives at Cap d’Ail with his French wife Sandrine and their 5-year old son Matheo. And yes, of course he watched Alonso win the Monaco Grand Prix, even fed the teams. “Although I was rooting for Lewis”, he grins.   “I developed my style not with the greats, but in small restaurants all over France. That training taught me to respect products and realise perfection is not always easy. Since Blue Bay opened I haven’t had a great deal of time to eat out, but have bonded with the local chefs who share my passion for our craft. When I first arrived in Monte Carlo I didn’t really know anyone. Joel Garault, of The Vistamar at The Hermitage Hotel, was the first to welcome me, said “if you need anything let me know”. I really appreciate his kindness and admire his concept of cooking the freshest fish, often caught, at the crack of dawn, with the Rinaldi family.    Monte Carlo is a great place for foodies, lots of speciality shops cater to the taste of the sophisticated and demanding residents. The Hotel de Paris is a worldwide reference to excellence. My main man is Alain Ducasse who not only made a success of his own career, but encourages young chefs like me to reach for the stars. When I have a minute I pop over to see Frank Cerutti, Executive chef at the Louis XV, he’ll prepare something we’ll share in the Aquarium. This is really the chef’s table, off the kitchen, where you see everyone working in perfect harmony, even watch it on closed circuit TV. Some guests prefer to eat here, the better to absorb what’s going on kitchen-side. Cerutti also introduced me to his suppliers in the markets of Ventigmilia and Cours Saleya, Nice.   Bar Boeuf & Co. is another Ducasse concept I admire, only open from May to September. Pascal Bardet continues to match wonderful products from the sea and land, cooked very simply, sometimes not cooked at all. Piece de veau dorée, tartinée d’une marmalade Crecy with the whites of soft blette. Saint-Jacques du Maine with asparaguis, beans and thyme flavoured baby mushrooms. Not forgetting the two star products le bar et le boeuf!  There’s Olivier Berger’s incredible desserts, it all washes down well with wines designed around Chardonnay and Syrah.   We go to Maya Bay for Shrimp and green leaf tempura: Peking Vegetable Salad:  Wok-fried noodles, ginger and baby leeks: or shrimp, calamari and Saint Jacques in Thai ragout, or grilled lacquered tuna. It’s all good, and Maya Bay sits elegantly behind a contemporary art gallery, so we can take in a bit of culture before we eat.   The talented Yannick Prunier is at The Sporting, Monte Carlo, where so many of the Principality’s concerts, festivals and galas are held. He brings a bit of hip, plus he knows what the clients want having worked in Paris, Moscow and Saint Petersburg. Yannick serves from 200 to 900 guests every night, and each dish must be perfection. He wants people to come, not only for the glittering soirées, but for his light bright cuisine.   Off to the beach for a bit of quality time with the family means Cap Marquet near our apartment.  Or, La Note Bleu, Larvotto Plage, where you can eat for between 30€-50€…
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By Margaret Kemp

Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !