Le Marignan, Helen, & Jour du Macaron

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Le Marignan, Helen, & Jour du Macaron
The handsome, headset wearing, suited and booted minder, straight from a Tarantino movie, comes from nowhere. « Are you looking for the hotel or the restaurant ? » Me : « Um, the restaurant » Tarantino type : « Do you have a reservation ? Honestly ! To put you in the loop, Marignan’s the former Ducasse Spoon restaurant. $$$$$ have been spent transforming the Art-Deco Hôtel Particulier into a chic palace worthy of the Golden Triangle on which it stands. Having shrugged off Tarantino I find the resto, about 12 black and white immaculate marble strides from the enoromous black door! Ashton’s waiting. The room’s designer cool, beautiful people, business lunches, secret trysts, it’s sexy, the waiter suggests freshly made carrot and passionfruit juice or Cucumber and Kiwi. Yay! MOF Felipe da Assuncao’s in the state-of-the-art kitchens, sending out silver baskets of Eric Kayser warm breads as well as: José Pena’s Sardinellas,erect herb-toast soldiers to dip in the sardine scented olive oil. Caesar Salads and chef’s spin on the Club Sandwich. Tarte fine tomate mozza : Tuna Tartare au red curry : 2 œufs coq « bio » caviar or foie gras : snails, garlic herbs. Mains include : Brochette of fat tender rosemary roasted scallops (me) :  Lobster Dim Sum : Spaghetti Meat-Balls (Ashton). Chicken & Chips : Marignan Burger. Then Paris-Brest : Pomme-au-Four : Rum Baba and Octave Ice-cream. Drink : Creamy Meursault Giradin « Les Tillets 2009 » (89€) and/ or red, rich herb scented terrific value Corbieres Ollieux Roman’s Cuvée Alice 2012 (19€). Don’t ignore the bar. An easy, convivial contemporary space; order the same menu as the restaurant all day, every day. Nice! Even the Tarantino has that chic je ne sais quoi. An interesting address. And, if you can’t bear to leave : Get a Room Upstairs : 40 Rooms & 10 Suites  580/780€ Marignan 12 rue de Marignan, 8th M : Franklin D Roosevelt, T : 01 40 76 34 56 Average spend 42-90€ Open 7/7 Helen From ancient Greek mythology, Helen’s a name made famous by the beautiful Spartan queen whose abduction by Paris set in motion the mythological Trojan War. They (Helen & Paris) would adore Helen circa 2014 tucked away in a side street near the Champs Elysées. The blue Mediterranean inspired space, tables well apart so Helen & Paris have their privacy. The discretion of the staff can be relied on, no hint of the paps to disturb their gastro/piscatorial pleasures. They’re used to celebs here, Director Franck Barrier gives no names, but here’s a clue: chefs with nearby restaurants: movie stars and politicians. Nobody’s admitting that François and Julie turned up on the scooter but, it’s tout a fait possible. The menu’s simple: Choose from Raw starters, carpaccios and tartars, according to the catch. Signatures such as Salade de poulpe “S’Agaro”: Croquets de seiche à l’encre: Oysters & Oursins when available: Catch of the Day: Grilled, steamed “En Suquet” (cooked as in Spain, delicious fish and potato stew). Chapon comme à Murtoli: Langoustine au soufflé d’aïoli. Pasta Vongole: Truffled brie: Stilton: Comté and a dessert wagon groaning with all your favourites. Sympa sommeliére Marie Roger suggests: To begin white Saint Peray “Les Potiers” from Yves Cuilleron 2012 (56€) then the full round red Patrimonio Yves Leccia (50€). Helen & Paris may be on a budget so they’ll be impressed with the generous 48€ lunch menu. Chef Sébastien Carmona-Porter sends out freebie tastings such as chunky tartare of salmon, drizzled with Italian olive oil.   They’re eating the food of the Gods and it’s good. The last Thursday night of each month is La Bouillabaisse Helen night. Do reserve: 65€. The Judgement of Paris ? Definitely worth a Michelin Star ! 3 rue Berryer, 8th M : Charles de Gaulle, Etoile/George V T : 01 40 76 01 40 Valet Parking Shut Sun-Mon (Gone Fishing)    
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Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !