Christmas in Provence

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Christmas in Provence
Christmas in France is a very special time of the year. Each region has its own customs and celebrations, and even the smallest villages are bedecked with displays of lights, trees, and holiday decorations. In the south of France, however, we found the warmest glow of holiday spirit. A Provençal Christmas is filled with traditions dating back centuries, each emphasizing the religious nature of the celebration. The season begins on December 4th with the festival of Sainte-Barbe and ends over a month later on Epiphany, January 6th, with the commemoration of the arrival of the three kings in Bethlehem. Visitors to Provence during this period will find both familiar and new observances, including crèches in both home and shop, displays of santons, midnight mass, and the Treize Desserts offered to family and friends. The Treize Desserts (13 Desserts) are perhaps the holiday tradition least familiar to visitors. The 13 desserts comprise various elements symbolizing the presence of Christ and his apostles at the family table; while the various components are similar throughout Provence, regional specialties are often added. The Treize Desserts are served on a large platter or, sometimes, in a wicker basket. First come the “Quatre mendiants”, named for their brown color similar to the robes worn by religious mendicant orders. These dry fruits include almonds, walnuts, hazelnuts, and either dry figs or white raisins. Next are fresh fruits symbolizing life and the produce of the earth: winter melon, pears, apples, oranges, and mandarins. Also included are dried apricots and plums, called “pistoles” because of their resemblance to pieces of gold. The final components of the Treize Desserts are black nougat with honey and white nougat with hazelnuts and pistachios. Regional specialties that might be included with the Treize Desserts include fougasses with anise, calissons, and spice cake. Although the Treize Desserts may be offered with any meal, they are invariably an accompaniment to the Gros Souper of December 24th, eaten after Midnight Mass. This traditional meal unites family members in celebrating the coming of the Christ Child. Other special features of the Christmas season are santon fairs, featuring the charming small figurines made by artisans throughout Provence. The fairs offer wares by various artists, from famous (such as Carbonnel) to locals, allowing for comparisons between the styles—and, of course, between those well known and those just beginning to make a name for themselves. Prices at these fairs are generally a bit lower than what gift shops charge, and there is a much wider variety from which to choose. Visiting the fairs is an excellent way to mingle with local people and join in their Christmas spirit, as well as bringing away delightful souvenirs for the holiday season at home. Provençal towns and villages take special pride in their holiday decorations. Shops large and small have elegant window displays, some boasting elaborate santon nativity scenes, and lighted swags are often strung from building to building across the main street. Nice in particular has outstanding outdoor light displays, and people often go there on December evenings to view the exquisite constructions. Christmas wouldn’t be Christmas in Provence without…chocolate! In store after store are piles of boxes of chocolates, from inexpensive (such as those carried at Carrefour) to very, very pricey. Specialty candy shops offer collections packed in elaborate boxes, but customers can also choose their own assortments. Anyone visiting friends or family goes equipped with at least one box of chocolates—and sometimes calissons, the specialty candy of Aix-en-Provence. These diamond-shaped white delicacies, along with the noted nougat of Montélimar, are highly prized—and priced accordingly. Glacé fruits and chestnuts (marrons) are also very popular. Provençals often begin holiday dinners with pâté de foie, accompanied by a bottle of Sauterne. Life in Provence at Christmas is good. Author Jean Underhill and her husband travel to France as frequently as their family of cats will allow. If you’re coming to France (or for that matter anywhere) you can reserve your hotel here. To rent a car, Bonjour Paris recommends Auto Europe.
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