Best of Buzz 2004 – who’s next

6 January 2005 by Margaret Kemp    1105  
Best of Buzz 2004 – who’s next
Margaret Kemp
By Margaret Kemp
Where you should have been last year – where to go this year. “Food guides are useless, out of date by the time they’re published,” comments Figaro’s Emmanuelle Rubin. BUZZ agrees; these days there are too many waltzing chefs chasing too many dreams, eager to cash in on their fifteen minutes. Hurry to these addresses; they may be ephemeral, they may last more than fifteen minutes! Who knows? Have you noted that last year was the year of the wine-bar, no restaurant could open without one: good thinking to get the punters in, not scare them away with sky-high prices. It all began with Lavinia 3-Boulevard de la Madeleine 1st. T:01 42 97 20 27. The following are all new and most of them have the bar idea.   Guy Savoy at Chiberta.Start here for contemporary food and service with décor by Jean Wilmotte. It’s expensive but wadda ya expect from Savoy; you want charity, go to UNICEF! Dishes include soothing starters, crème de langoustine et carottes parfumée à la citronelle. A bon beef Simmenthal with a bon Béarnaise, a jarret de veau braisé avec des peches, and desserts d’enfance. Wines are impressive and selected from the open wine wall that decorates the stunning space.3, rue Arsene Houssaye, 8th (Metro: Charles de Gaulle Etoile)T: 01 52 53 42 00 Lunch from 60€ and you can eat at the barhttp://www.lechiberta.com/   Dans Le Noir: Surprise/shock of the year, eat in the dark, served by visually challenged staff. Luckily chef Anne Marie di Lorenzo is sighted, the owners very far-sighted to dare a concept like this. Parisians like to be seen wearing the new YSL, carrying the latest Vuitton/Gucci but they flock to Dans Le Noir big time. Set up initially by the blind for the blind, and yes they do organise blind tastings!51 rue Quincampoix (4th). (Metro: Hotel de Ville). + Bar Dans Le Noir for wimps who don’t think they can take the full monty. Or try Sunday BrunchT: 01 42 77 98 04 www.danslenoir.fr   Les Fables de la Fontaine: We all know and appreciate Le Violon d’Ingres and Café Constant. The best surprise of the year has to be Les Fables de la Fontaine, Constant’s transformed oyster bar. Only about 20 covers, freshest fish, seafood and classic desserts such as Pithiviers, Paris-Brest, Baba-Au-Rhum.131 rue Saint Dominique, 7th, (Metro: Ecloe Militaire)T: 01 44 18 37 55 Open Sunday night!   L’Entredgeu:Last January, Philippe Tredgeu and his lovely wife Penelope transformed an old zinc bar into the hippest neighbourhood bistro in the 17th. They should open one in each arrondissement, they’d make a fortune. Definitely book ahead.83 rue Laugier, 17th (Metro: Porte de Champerret)T: 01 40 54 97 24Carte-Menu 29€ Lunch 20€   Pasco:The décor is Spanish bodega meets Moroccan riad, Pasco has a terrace and great views of the Dome des Invalides. Formerly the kitchens of Thierry Burlot, now at La Maison Baccarat. Pascal Vignes creates Mediterranean cuisine, quality- price you’ll want to rush there. Between 15€-24€ + A La Carte74 boulevard de la Tour Maubourg, 7th (Metro: Invalides)T: 01 44 18 33 26http://www.restaurantpasco.com/   Le MuranoIf you like vodka the bar has a choice of 100! Shiny new designer restaurant in the shiny new “urban resort”. First impressions are promising with a chef (ex-Ducasse), enthusiastic staff and ze beautiful pipole arriving, but not before 9pm, darling! Hip starters include salade de trios quinoas avec tomates et mousse de carottes. Tataki de langoustine et soup de haricots cocos. Lunch menu at 25€ Dinner 50€. Definitely worth a visit.13 boulevard du Temple, 3rd (Metro: Filles de Calvaire)T: 01 42 71 20 00http://www.muranoresort.com/indexok.html   La Table de RobuchonRobo’s latest, located in Ghislaine Arabian’s former canteen. Fréderic Simonin stays as chef, creates a light cuisine with an Asian spin. Demi-portions for the Ladies Who (don’t) Lunch. Gélee of crab with avocado (18€) Caviar of Aubergine, slightly smoked (16€) and the all time classic Merlan frit Colbert beurre blanc (23€), Giant juicy veal with olives and artichokes (58€) Thyme flavoured lamb (34€). Light fruity desserts (gélee de thé, ice-cream) and excellent wines, by the bottle or glass (5€). 6-plat menu degustation 150€.16 avenue Bugeaud 16th (Metro: Victor Hugo)T: 01 56 28 16 16Open 7/7 Valet Parking   ApiciusJean-Pierre Vigato has moved house. It took eight months of work to transform a handsome hotel particulier into a magnificent restaurant worthy of this talented chef (ex-Apicius, avenue de Villiers). Architect Eric Zelle has made a mini-hip Versailles; it can’t be long before Vigato is dubbed with a third macaron Michelin. Expect to spend 120€ per person + wine. But there’s nothing to stop you from popping in for a drink at the bar, and rumour has it breakfast is served, but you must reserve.20 rue d’Artois, 8th (Metro: Concorde)T: 01 43 80 19 66Closed Sat-Sun   La Poele d’OrAlert readers will know that this is a BUZZ favourite. Alain Bourgade (ex-Ducasse) has been cooking since he was 14! His foie gras is superb (he’ll teach you to make it) and you can pop in for a plat du jour, a glass of wine for about 15€.37 rue Miromesnil, 8th (Metro:Miromesnil)T: 01 42 65 78 60Closed Sat-Sun   Dominique BouchetTalented superchef (ex-Crillon) opens eponymous bistro, great rejoicing in gastroland.“My carte is court, 5 starters, 4 fish dishes, 5 meat, 5 desserts and beautiful cheese from Marie-Anne Cantin,” he explains. Yes, he is doing his “plat fetish” le gigot d’agneau à…
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By Margaret Kemp

Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !