The New Hot Quarters the 10th

Published: 7 November 2006 by John Talbott 419

The tenth arrondissement, while frequented by tourists, is usually seen more as a point of embarkation or arrival at the Gare du Nord or Gare de l’Est. However, I find walking along the Canal St. Martin to be a refreshing change from the grand boulevards or even the Seine. In fall especially, with the leaves falling, and the air a bit brisk, it’s delightful. And, I discovered recently that there’s a nifty motorized vessel that comes along periodically to scoop up the leaves that have fallen in.

As for food, we’re probably most familiar with the classic Flo brasseries: the Brasserie Flo itself, Julien and the Terminus Nord, which I actually prefer and has a terrific small private room for 10-20 with a faux Tiffany ceiling that is wonderful. Otherwise, there’s Thierry Breton’s mothership Chez Michel, which has wonderful, reasonably-priced game in season and his around-the-corner off-shoot, Chez Casimir, both convenient if you’re just getting off the train. La Grille has excellent huge turbot but hasn’t learned to master its credit card machine. Everybody’s seen the movie “Hotel Nord;” and it’s a shame that the recently revived restaurant by the same name isn’t up to the flick. I had high hopes for the new “abat” restaurant Aux Zingots, but the night I was there, there were few innards and fewer customers.